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The Basics: Components of a Poultry Netting Kit Explained

Poultry Netting Kits

Whether you have an egg producing business or you have a few hens in your back garden you may both be confused as to which electric fencing net or system would suit your hens' needs best and keep Mr Fox out!  So in this blog we explain the components of a poultry netting kit.

We know our netting systems work because they are tried and tested by us.  We have experience of putting up and taking down poultry netting kits.  So if you are bamboozled by the choice or are having trouble setting your kit up... get in touch with us... 01620 860058 or email:  We love chatting about electric fencing.

Here are some points to consider when looking to purchase a poultry netting kit:

1. Mains, Battery or Battery & Solar

Mains - is the easiest power source to use.  It can be left on or put on a timer to come on at certain times of day.  Make sure your mains energiser is kept in dry conditions - a lead out cable will run power from your energiser to your fence.

Battery - if your fencing is too far away from the mains then battery is the way forward.  Make sure you use a leisure battery rather than a car battery.  Leisure batteries cost more but last longer between charges as they are slow release.  Keep testing your fence to see how much power is going through the fence - as soon as this drops charge your battery.

Battery/Solar - if you want to run a solar energiser you will still need a source of power ie a battery.  The energy from the sun is used to trickle feed the battery.  So you don't have to charge it so often.  Be sure to test your fence regularly and keep an eye on the power levels when there have been a few dull days in a row.

2. Which Energiser?

Always consider powering up when setting up an electric netting system.  Netting takes more energy and a higher powered energiser to make it an effective barrier.  Think ahead... are you going to extend your enclosure?  How many nets could you end up joining together?  Power up and choose an energiser that is going to push plenty of zap through the netting.

3. Earth Stakes

Who would have thought that a piece of metal could be so important!  The earth stake or earth spike is a crucial part of any electric fencing system.  How dry is the ground where the netting is going to be set up?  Is it very stony?  Are there lots of tree roots?  There are different types of earth stake - the heavy duty T Section earth stakes have a larger surface area and so ensure a better zap.

4. Netting

Measuring up is very important... a 50m net can take up more space than you think.  It is possible however to roll the netting up at one end (always put some heavy duty plastic under the rolled up section to prevent grass growing up through the netting).

Here is a basic guide to each of our nets ...

1. Standard Poultry Nets (25 & 50m)  

  • 1.1m netting - close mesh
  • single pronged thin posts
  • netting comes with posts, pegs, guy ropes, warning sign
  • can be clipped together to extend enclosure

2. Premium Poultry Nets (25 & 50m)

  • 1.22m high netting - close mesh
  • double pronged medium weight posts throughout
  • netting comes with posts, pegs, guy ropes, warning sign
  • can be clipped together to extend enclosure
  • a 1.2m netting hot gate can be added (but is not included)

3. Professional Poultry Nets (25 & 50m)

  • 1.22m high netting - close mesh
  • double pronged strong posts throughout
  • double pronged heavy duty corner posts
  • netting comes with posts, pegs, guy ropes, warning sign
  • can be clipped together to extend enclosure
  • a 1.2m netting hot gate can be added (but is not included)

 5. Access to the Netting Enclosure

For many years electric netting simply had an extra fence post placed at one end of the netting and this was used as a swivel gate - ie the netting swivelled around on this post as you moved the end post to access the enclosure.  Last year Hotline Electric Fencing developed a 'hot gate'.  The hot gate comes in two heights - 1.1m and 1.2m.  It can easily be added on to the end of a net and the power transfer is completed by connecting the two metal clips.  The main advantages of the 'hot gate' are two fold: 1. the gate can be opened with out having to turn the power off as the gate has an insulated handle 2. the movable gate post has no spike and so is slotted into a foot plate - meaning that in wet weather this post will not make a mess of the grass as you go in and out of the enclosure as it is not being pulled in and out of the ground all the time.  There are also netting gates which constitute a couple of posts and a section of netting - nothing fancy but will do the job.

6. Accessories for Electric Netting

Sometimes if your ground is very windy or exposed it is advised that you should add extra posts to your kit to help prevent sagging and to create good tension in the netting.  The extra strong corner posts come in two sizes 1.1m and 1.2m.  They are actually slightly taller than the netting and so can tension the net too.  These extra strong corner posts and any extra post can easily be fitted into the netting.  The netting will come to you as it left the factory... the posts are set in specific positions... but if this doesn't work for your set up ... move the posts.  They are easy to undo and replace.

The bottom line of an electric fence is not electrified and should be pegged down.

Guy ropes should be used - these come with yellow pegs.  Guy ropes should be attached to posts in the corners and should be attached half way up the post and then tensioned out the way.  Putting up an electric net without its guy ropes is similar to putting up a tent with out guy ropes!

Fence testers - I guess you could use your finger... but it is not all that pleasant.  Use your tester reguarly to check for shorting (ie foliage growing up around the bottom of the fence) and to see if your battery is needing charged.

7. Electric Fencing for a Permanent Enclosure

Perhaps you already have a permanent enclosure in place and would like to make it doubly secure?  Why not add a couple of lines of electric fencing around the enclosure?  See the pictures below.

... Or if our online kits don't suit you... contact us and let us know what you need - we can make a bespoke kit just for you.

Last but not least here are a few set up tips:

  1. ensure you use a tester to check that you are getting enough zap around your fence - should be at least 3000v.
  2. the bottom line is not electricfied but the next horizontal line up is.  Use guy ropes and extra posts to help lift the net and prevent sagging.  If the second line up touches the ground it will cause shorting.  It is possible to cut the second horizontal line at both ends to prevent it touching the ground and therefore shorting.
  3. if you have not got enough power going through your netting (less than 3000v) please check that the netting is not touching any of the metal prongs.  Please make sure you have not attached the netting to any wooden posts.

We love talking electric fencing... so if you need to contact us:

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Meriel Younger

About Meriel Younger

Farmers daughter (my mother was the farmer!) with many years experience of farming, equestrian and electric fencing. Living the 'good life' and forever trying to find the perfect work/life balance!
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